Mondays, Maggie Muses: A Visit to Nonostante Marras

Tucked away in a quiet neighborhood, away from the city center, away from the Brera, the Duomo, and the hustle and bustle of a typical downtown corridor lies a magical and wondrous place. Antonio Marras has created a place full of old world charm and whimsy. It is called Nonostante Marras. Translated as “despite Marras”, this shop is where Antonio showcases his RTW clothing line. But the experience is so much more than shopping a typical designer boutique.

entrance antonio marras

nonostante marras exterior

Its humble entry leads you to an open courtyard filled with plants and if you wander for a little bit you will see Snow White and the seven dwarfs standing guard. Glance past the old factory windows, and you get excited at the thought to see what lies inside.

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a mini travel guide to the navigli, milan

Alzaia Naviglio Grande

I just recently returned from my bi-yearly buying trip to Milan. I stay in what I like to think is a non-Milan neighborhood called the Navigli. When most people think of Milan, they think of chic shopping on Via Monte Napoleone, gazing the glass tiles of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II or touring the majestic and iconic Duomo. Don’t get me wrong, I like to do these things too. But I am most at home in the Navigli district. And though it’s mostly known for its late night activities. I like to experience it in the late afternoons and early evenings before the crowds of twenty-somethings take over the neighborhood bars.

Being a small business owner myself, I like to support small local businesses, whether I am Seattle or in another city. The Navigli is a neighborhood of hard working small establishments that are offering independent goods and experiences. Here is a very small guide on what to see, drink and eat while visiting this burrow of Milan.The easiest way to get there is to take Milan’s “Metropolitana” subway. Take the green line towards Abbiategrasso/Assago and get off at Porta Genova.

Map of Navigli

Start off your visit with a late lunch or an afternoon coffee at one of the many cafes along the Naviglio Grande. I particularly like to have lunch at L’Altro Luca e Andrea. A small cafe with delicious homemade pasta. Weather permitting, sit outside where you can watch the locals sipping their espressos or taking afternoon strolls.

When you finish lunch, walk along the Naviglio Grande. Ripa di Porta Ticinese and Alzaia Naviglio Grande are the two main roads in the Navigli. Pop into the bookstores, vintage furniture and clothing shops that flank both sides of the canal.

If you happen to be there during the flea market, you have hit the jackpot! Both sides of the canal are filled with over 400 vendors selling their antique and vintage collections. A must see occurrence that happens every last Sunday of the month.

The adjoining streets to the Naviglio Grande have some fun little independent designer shops and boutiques too. Along Via Corsico, a new discovery for me was a small little gallery shop called Brandstorming. This little shop features local artists who use found objects and recycled materials to create unique jewelry and gifts.

If you have room in your suitcase, check out and do not miss La Vineria on Via Casale. A wine distillery that makes and bottles there own wine blends. They also bottle olive oil which is my favorite thing to bring home. No room in your suitcases? You can still buy a bottle of wine and drink it in front of the shop. Feel like having a little treat? The Gelateria Orso Bianco up and across the street has wonderful organic frozen treats.

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Mondays, Maggie Muses: Snapshots of NYC

Snapshots of NYC

Times Square

This Monday I was musing about our recent trip last week to New York.  It was cold, dark and at times downright frigid outside. But, I thought it would be fun to share some pictures from the Big Apple. While we did go to attend a trade show and visit some showrooms, we mostly went to spend time in the city and have some fun with our son. It was his birthday week and he had never been to New York,  so it was the perfect excuse to take him with us and spend some quality family time too.

I am the worst at taking pictures when there is no proper lighting. Plus, I was having so much fun with the fam that half the time I would forget to take pictures. But I did manage to take a few snapshots with my iPhone. It looks like I spent most of my time looking up or looking down.

Other than visiting with friends and eating great food, the highlights for me were the American Museum of Natural History, the Matisse Shapes Exhibit at MOMA and attending a Broadway show.

What do you like to do when you visit New York? Thank you as always for stopping by our little blog. Have a great week! xo ~ Maggie

Mondays, Maggie Muses: Snapshots of the Navigli

Naviglio Grande

This Monday I am musing about my recent trip to Milan. I stay in an area called the Navigli at a little B&B that I have been fortunate to call home when in the city. I attend a trade show to buy shoes for our shop. I know, rough life.

First a brief history of this charming neighborhood. The Navigli (meaning “fleet”, most likely derived from the Latinnavigium, which means “to navigate”) was a canal system originally built for irrigation and to transport goods into the city. In fact the marble used to build the Duomo in the 14th century was transported along the canal system from Candoglia (near the Swiss border) to the city center. Leonardo di Vinci engineered the first lock system using these canals at the end of the 15th century.

Though today, most of this canal system ceases to exist, the Navigli neighborhood has remained intact and is a romantic area to stroll, shop and eat. Artists’ studios, small shops, romantic bars, flea markets, and summer concerts make it a unique contrast to the rest of the city’s larger scale architecture.

I was lucky enough to be there for the last Sunday of the month to witness the antique flea market. It’s a flea market that changes its venues every month, going to different neighborhoods in Milan. Imagine my surprise to walk out in the morning to find the street filled with vendors! These are snapshots I took with my Iphone on my way to and from work during my stay.

 Thank you as always for stopping by our little blog. Have a great week! xo ~ Maggie

Milan; the Good, the Sad and the Ugly

Another season, another trip to Milan (sigh).  Wait, that doesn’t sound right.  I promise that it’s not nearly as glamorous as it sounds.  Sure, I go to Italy usually twice a year to work with vendors and factories.  But it’s really hard work.  It’s a long travel day, endless walking, there’s jet lag and other side effects and I’m really only there for 4 nights.  I get up early and start working, so I never really get fully adjusted before it’s time to turn around and go back to Seattle.

But even if my internal clock is backwards and my feet feel like little loaves of bread, I do take time to visit the city of Milan. I take in some sights, find some new places and check in on the old favorites. I have mixed feelings about this last trip to the city, so I am calling this post “the Good, the Sad and the Ugly”.

On this trip, I hit all my appointments and got all the work done and then I had my whole last day free to roam the city.  So I spent the day shopping the windows of Milan, wandering the streets high and low.  I battled the crowds and I meandered on the side streets, I’m getting good at knowing the ins and outs of Milan and I’m a pro at the subway (metro).

Starting with the good:  Milan has so much classic architecture!  I can walk through the Galleria time after time and still amazed. The Duomo is stunning, it bursts high into the sky making me feel minuscule in comparison. I never tire of walking around in this area.  The perfect melting pot of neoclassical architecture with new and modern shops makes for very pleasant window shopping, despite the congestion of locals and tourists.

I have a new favorite fashion store, it’s called “& Other Stories” and they have everything you could want! Jewelry, accessories, clothing and make-up.  It’s like I walked into a fashionable person’s closet, color coordinated and curated by a professional stylist and it’s all very reasonably priced. I am regretting that I passed a little black dress and next time I will have to save my pennies so I can be impulsive.

I live for the boutique windows.  The italians are very creative and I can always count on the shops to have interesting  (and sometimes funny) windows full of inspiring ideas.  I loved the simple yet attractive neon window in a Brera showroom and of course the murdered gnome in the Navigli actually made me laugh out load.

Moving on to the sad, which is led by Chinese imports and an infiltration of big box chain stores.  I was in Porta Ticinese, across the street from from Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio.  This street has always attracted me for it’s historic neighborhood feel and a healthy mix of independent retail.  This time, I was looking at an American Apparel shop and it was disconcerting to say the least.  The indie retailers on this street used to inspire me and now I feel like it’s become homogenized, taken over by the corporations.  I had a similar feeling while staring in the windows of my favorite Milan shoe retailers.  The shops that once sold fine Italian footwear are now full of fast fashion items made in China.  There are stores that I once aspired to emulate, and now they are full of brands that you would recognize from department stores in the US.

Seeing all this saddens me but it also makes me feel grateful too. I feel really blessed that our shop can still offer beautiful handmade shoes and unique goods, because stores like ours are few and far between not only in our country but in Italy as well. Thank you to our customers for shopping with us and demanding quality goods, it’s our passion and we love to bring you all the things we hold dear and love.

Okay, now on to the ugly.  Graffitti, it’s everywhere and seriously out of control! Historic monuments tend to be sacred and yet, anything remotely public domain is covered with paint. Most of it is senseless tagging and there are a few attempts at something artistic but there is so much that I am desensitized and it’s all ugly.  I passed by a shop owner painting over his tagged store front and I thought, “Wow, that’s really great, he is handling the problem head on” and later I realized that the store front was a paint shop. Well, I guess he was obliged, I just hope his paint job will last longer than a week.

To end on a good note, my favorite thing about the city of Milan is its neighborhoods.  Navigli, Centro Storico, Corso Como, Porta Ticinese and the Brera each have their own character and charm.  The piazzas, parks and gardens paired with the architecture of the buildings make it a pleasure to stroll and enjoy. Every time I visit, I try to discover a new area but I’m always frequenting my favorites.  Milan is a busy metropolitan area and it may not be the first choice destination for travelers but what I have learned over the years of visiting, if you take the time to get to know the city, Milan has all the excitement and charm of other famed Italian cities, just in a different way.

4 Days in Milan, Italy

Back in March, we took our biannual trip to Milan to attend a shoe fair.  Here is a travel diary in pictures of the things we saw, food we ate and places we enjoyed when we were not previewing fall 2013 shoe trends.  Click on the photos below for details.

Travel Journal: Milan/MICAM Day 3 & 4

This is a continuation of a previous post. To read Part 1 and 2, go here then here.

DAY 3

Another night of restless sleep, but I had a super busy day ahead of me. No rest for the weary! So I passed on the platform sandals and wore some flats instead. I knew my feet would be happier in the long run because I had a lot of walking to do!

Entrance to Fiera Milano

Off to the show I went. I worked with several of our vendors detailing styles, colors and taking pictures so I would know what to buy when I got back to Seattle. It’s fun, but around 3:00 the jet lag set in so I decide to call it quits for the day. Sometimes it’s best to stop when you are tired, otherwise you come back home and think, “what was I doing buying that purple suede, orange platform boot?”

Vialis Spring 2013

I opt to take the green line to the Moscova stop and shop via Garibaldi. I love all the shop windows and how these small stores take pride in their businesses. Whether its a clothing boutique or a grocery store, it doesn’t matter. The art of merchandising and display is alive and well in this city.

A shop window at a tile store.

After a little rest, I meet my friends for dinner at Pepino. Good company and great food make all the difference when you are traveling for work. It’s a nice way to decompress from the long day. By the time I got back to my room it was almost midnight!

DAY 4

Last day in Milan. Cristina meets me at the show entrance at 9:30 am. We only have a few vendors to visit and we finish very quickly. We have been working together for years and as a team we are very efficient. I thank her for her time and we say our goodbyes. We look forward to seeing each other again in March.

The grounds at Fiera Milano

There is still a couple of neighborhoods I hadn’t shopped so I take the subway back to the Brera neighborhood to have a little lunch and shop more windows. By 3:00, I am all shopped out so I head back to the hotel for some rest.

A florist shop in the Brera neighborhood.

In the early evening I grab my i-Pad and visit my favorite bar in the neighborhood, the Mag Bar. I start blogging my first entry for this series. A couple of Aperol Spritz later, I start to get hungry. I walk to a pizza-to-go place, grab my food to take it to my room, eat and finish packing. I force myself to go to bed early for a cab awaits me at 5:30 am to take me to the Linate airport in the morning.

Mag Bar

Blogging and enjoying an Aperol Spritz.

It was a good trip, but I was ready to come home. You’ll just have to wait until January to start seeing all the new spring collections coming to re-souL. I hope you will be pleased.